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Tour Manager Tales: A Canadian Journey Full of 'Wow' Moments

10 December 2024

"I've been to some fantastic places, and one of the best was Canada," says Tour Manager Richard Bullard.

Now in his fourth full season with Great Rail Journeys, geographer and former headteacher Richard is relishing his role.

"I've always loved travelling and since I stopped teaching, this has given me the opportunity to do that - and give a bit back. I love seeing new places and meeting the genuinely interesting people we travel with.

"I want to make sure they have a fantastic holiday, and that they go home saying 'that was brilliant'. Most of our customers do."

Richard recently led a group on our Wonders of Canada and The Rocky Mountaineer tour and came back with some unforgettable memories - and many fantastic photos.

The Rocky Mountaineer train waiting at the platform, it is decorated with the Canadian flag and a Rocky Mountaineer branded red carpet to welcome guests aboard.

The Rocky Mountaineer's First Passage to the West

Travelling across nearly 3,000 miles of the world's second-largest country is an unforgettable experience enjoyed on two iconic trains.

The first part is on the Rocky Mountaineer, embarking on two daylight-only trips from Vancouver to Banff. The scenery is incredible, but so is the journey.

"Everyone loved it," says Richard. "The welcome at Vancouver on departure is fantastic. Your bags go aboard, and a piper welcomes you. On board, there's a drinks trolley and the food is excellent. Along the route, crews line the platforms to wave you off, which was really appreciated. We liked that personal touch.

"You're given a newspaper with the route highlights and the hosts provide great commentary throughout - pointing out the wildlife. We saw salmon in the river, osprey nests, bald eagles. We didn't see any bears on this occasion, but did see pretty much everything else!

"The commentary was first class and the hosts were excellent. They were effusive and clearly liked their job, which really helps. The group felt they were being treated specially, which they were really."

As the route gets higher along the Fraser River, passengers can relax in their comfortable seats and admire the views from the large windows. After an overnight stay in a hotel, the second day delivers even more incredible scenery on the historic First Passage to the West route.

"We got into the Rockies proper, along the Kicking Horse River. Somehow, I managed to get a photo of the spike that joined the country up. In all the vastness of Canada!

"We stuck our heads out of the doors to get photos of the rivers… and then the mountains came into view. It was just stunning. Every time you went round a bend and saw the vistas was a 'wow' moment.

"The Rocky Mountaineer is a special trip. I think the customers felt privileged, I certainly did."

 

The rugged, rocky brown peaks of Canada are spotted with trees and sits next to a rushing river.

Exploring the Rocky Mountains

Surrounded by rugged peaks and blanketed by swathes of larch and pine forests, the Rockies represent the epic majesty of Canadian wilderness. From our base in Banff, we explore the astounding beauty of this region - always a highlight of a Canadian adventure.

 

The Banff Gondola hangs above a steep drop, surrounded by the dramatic tree line of Banff National Park.

Banff and Sulphur Mountain

"There are so many places to eat in Banff - and lots of pale ale breweries," says Richard. "It's touristy but lovely. The walk along the Bow River is fabulous. I strolled down to Bow Falls, which featured in the Marilyn Monroe film River of No Return.

"A trip to Sulphur Mountain on the Banff Gondola was included on this trip due to the wildfires in Jasper, meaning that area had been evacuated, and no one could visit.

"Sulphur Mountain is 8,000 feet high. To put that in context, Ben Nevis is just under 4,500 feet. It was a beautiful day and the views from the top are wonderful. A chipmunk even came over and nibbled my shoe!"

A popular optional inclusion on the Wonders of Canada and The Rocky Mountaineer tour is the opportunity to meet a Mountie.

"It's a really nice touch and most of the group attended," adds Richard. "The Royal Canadian Mounted Police are mythical for us Brits, like seeing Beefeaters in London. Seeing the Mountie turn up in the iconic red uniform was great. It was an interlude that's so quintessentially Canadian - especially for those who remember Dudley Do-Right!

"The Mountie talked for about 40 minutes, providing insights into what the RCMP do and talked about the uniform. There was also the chance to have photographs with him."

 

Three red canoes ride along the crystal-clear water of Lake Louise, with green trees and vast mountains behind them.

Lake Louise and Emerald Lake

"The trips out of Banff were wonderful," says Richard about the group's excursions to some of Canada's most iconic locations.

Standing on the shore of Lake Louise is one of many jaw-dropping moments on this incredible tour. A strikingly turquoise lake is surrounded by an arc of chiselled mountains drawing the eyes to the ethereal Victoria Glacier rising skyward in the centre.

"Lake Louise was lovely - but the group generally preferred Emerald Lake because it was a bit quieter. The colours of both are fantastic."

A freshwater lake in Yoho National Park, Emerald Lake is impressive in its remoteness as well as the mind-blowing hue of the water - speckled with red kayaks floating into the distance.

 

The red and white Canadian Ice Explorer bus sits on top of the frozen Icefields Parkway.

Driving the Icefields Parkway to Athabasca Glacier

"It was breathtaking scenery all the way," recalls Richard about the famous Icefields Parkway.

Lined by rumbling rivers and towering peaks, this stunning journey really drives home how huge Canada is. "We saw a sign that said: 'no mobile coverage for the next 150km'!

"I'm a geographer and have been to glaciers in South America, or as close as you can get, but you can actually go on the Athabasca Glacier here."

Part of the largest icefield in the Rockies, the Athabasca Glacier is spectacular. "There are all-terrain vehicles called Ice Explorers. There are only 23 of these in the world - two are in Antarctica and the other 21 are at Athabasca so it's pretty unique.

"Being there amongst glaciers, mountains and snow was stunning. And a good 10 degrees colder than at the base… in Celsius.

"The whole day was spellbinding. It stuns you into silence and you stand there with your mouth open. I said to someone 'can you stop me saying wow whenever we go round a corner!"

 

A modern silver VIA Rail train sits on a sunny platform on a clear blue day.

All aboard VIA Rail's Canadian for an iconic train journey

"I tell the customers we're getting ready for a big adventure, embrace it. It's a great journey by rail."

An epic three-night trip on VIA Rail's Canadian train carries passengers from the Rocky Mountains to the heart of Canada's most populous city, Toronto.

"I loved it. With its silver stream-lined look, it's so North American. The staff are incredibly friendly, and the food was excellent - if anything, there was too much! West to east is the way to go because the sun is behind you in the evening and there's a wonderful bar at the back that tapers into a point - perfect for viewing the sunset.

"The first part is across the prairies, and they have a certain beauty to them. We even saw an elk one morning. There are stops on the way where you can get out and look around. There's also entertainment on board, from talks and a wine-tasting in the Observation Car to fun games in the car below. There's plenty of time to yourself or to meet other travellers. You can find a quiet place to sit and read your book or watch the sights go by during the day.

"The showers had hot water, so you felt refreshed, but I'd definitely advise booking a cabin instead of a curtained berth.

"Ontario contains about a fifth of the world's fresh water. You go past lakes and trees, go to sleep and, next morning, open your roller blind and it's lakes and trees. It really gives you an idea of the vastness of the country."

Freight is king in Canada and Richard's group saw trains hauling more than 150 wagons. As the country relies on the railways, the Canadian runs to the freight timetable and can often be delayed.

"Despite that, we only arrived at Toronto 40 minutes late! It's absolutely fabulous - a fantastic trip."

 

Water rushes over the Niagara Falls creating clouds of white spray and a small blue tourist boat sits in the middle of the water.

Niagara Falls: A spectacular conclusion

The final excursion of this tour is one to remember: a full day trip to Niagara Falls with a local guide, including a cruise close to the Horseshoe Falls.

"I've been to Iguazu Falls in South America, and this is just as impressive. It was a revelation," says Richard.

"You're on the best side of the falls on the Canadian side and right in the bowl so you get soaked!"

Travelling along the Niagara River gorge, the group visited the whirlpool and the small town of Niagara on the Lake.

"It's an absolute gem and was a total surprise to the customers. Founded in the 1820s, it's an old colonial town on the border, with forts on either side and horse-and-carts clip-clopping down historic streets.

"It was picture-perfect, similar to when people talk about the Cotswolds. This is how you'd imagine a colonial town to have been in its day. It was a lovely way to end the tour."

 

"A wonderful tour"

"You have the wow of the Rockies and glaciers, the culture with the Mountie and then the Canadian. Niagara on the Lake was a real gem, but the jewel in the crown was the Rocky Mountaineer and the scenery.

"They were a great group and jelled really quickly. We had fantastic guides wherever we went.

"Some of my friends are now interested in going on this trip with Great Rail Journeys."

All photos by Tour Manager Richard Bullard